Traditional Dish from the Puebla Mixteca

The main ingredient is the thigh and spine of the fatted kid, which has a strong flavor and dark color

The salsa is made from guajillo, costeño and serrano chiles, tomatillos (“ground cherries”), tomatoes, avocado leaves, cilantro and a green bean typical of the regions

Mole de caderas is one of the principal traditions from the state of Puebla. According to the gastronomy calendar of the state of Puebla, the third Thursday of October is the beginning of the ethnic festival of La Matanza, which has been officially celebrated since 1996 although it has ancient origins. Celebrated in Tehuacán, the event draws most of the indigenous communities of the Mixteca region in Puebla who present examples of their rituals such as weddings, sacred dances, carnivals, and other customs. The fiesta culminates with a feast where participants taste the mole de caderas, specially prepared for more than 1000 people. 

La Matanza is a tradition that dates back to the seventeenth century, when goats were introduced in New Spain. It is said that the servants were only allowed to have the bones of the goats eaten by their masters, and they prepared them with other seasonal ingredients such as guajes (calabashes) and ayocote beans. As legend would have it, the result is the now famous and traditional mole de caderas. 

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RECIPE

1 kg goat hip and spine bones

5 grams cilantro sprigs

300 grams white onions

200 grams ayocote beans, halved

100 grams guajillo chiles

250 grams tomatillos

200 grams tomatoes

250 grams lard for frying

100 grams small fresh guajes (tender white leadtree pods)

5 grams salt

2 avocado leaves, toasted

 

Preparation

  • Chop the meat and put it on to boil with salt and onion. When the meat is half cooked, add the sprig of cilantro.
  • Boil the chiles with the tomatillos, tomatoes, and the rest of the onion. Purée them in the blender and fry the purée with a little lard and season it.
  • Toast the guajes and clean them thoroughly so they are not hard to digest.
  • Add the chile mixture to the meat with the avocado leaves and the green beans, and let it all simmer.
  • Adjust the seasoning and add the guajes. The meat must be well done and the broth thick. 
Relevant Facts: 

According to custom, one day before the animals are to be slaughtered, the butchers light a bonfire in the place assigned for their work, surround it with a rope and decorate it with herbs.

The first goat to be slaughtered is adorned with marigolds and offered to the gods as if asking for permission to take their lives.